Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.
This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.
“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.
It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.
Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.
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